Sagada in a Jiffy
What a view! Woke up to this scenery of rice terraces in Banaue last Saturday. We were on our way to Sagada. My friend Tine who's based in Singapore came by specifically just to go to Sagada to see the sunrise and sea of clouds, and waterfalls. Rizal would've been a cheaper option. It has all that, too. Haha! Anyway, she seemed to really want to see Sagada, so off we went. Although I almost didn't make it. Was running late again. Told my friend who's waiting at the bus terminal to tell the driver to wait for me because I definitely wouldn't make it at the departure time at 9pm. She was told that they were only going to wait for 5 minutes after the scheduled departure. But luck is still on my side. We left Cubao at around 9:30pm, and arrived in Sagada at around half past nine in the morning. It took 12 hours, and it felt like forever. Haven't been in a long trip in a while so I had to sedate myself because I started feeling dizzy as soon at the bus started moving.
I tried contacting several inns few days before but none booked us a room. Thus, the first thing we did was to check in. Sagada Guesthouse which is right at the center of Poblacion was my first option since I received a reply earlier from them saying that they still have vacant rooms. And because I thought they must've nice rooms now since they renovated. Well, they really did renovate, but the rooms are still reminiscent of how they used to be when I first stayed there. This was where we stayed back in May 2008 during our field trip there. I've been to other inns in Sagada with more cozy rooms and better amenities. Anyway, we checked in in one of their economy rooms with two single beds for P600. We left our things and went out to book a trip going back to Manila the next day. Coda Lines terminal is right downstairs. Then we went to the tourism center which is the former municipal hall. They now have a new municipal hall right across the street.
All tourists need to register and pay P35 each for environmental fee. The receipt must be kept because in some sites, they ask for it. We inquired about the tour packages, and I was surprised to see that almost all tour offerings now have a transportation option, at P500 or P650, depending on what type or transportation or where the drop off point is. Each tour guide can take in up to 11 persons in a group, but if there are only two or three of you in a group, it will be expensive. I was telling Tine that there used to be guides who arrange for smaller groups to join another group so they can share the fees. But now, there seems to be an increase in the number of tour guides and residents renting out their vehicles.
We decided to have lunch first and just go back later. We had lunch at Alabama Inn. I had pinikpikan, while Tine had etag. Though parang hindi pinikpikan yung luto, iba ang lasa.
And then we had dessert at Yoghurt House, probably the most popular food stop in Sagada.
After lunch, we went back to the inn to change clothes, and then went back to the tourism center to book a tour to Bomod-ok Falls. Transportation is provided right there, but the guides are at the jump-off. Poblacion to jump-off is around 12 minutes by car, but you can opt to walk all the way to Aguid or Bangaan. Guide fee is P500, and a P10/person entrance fee also had to be paid at the jump-off.
I've been to Bomod-ok or what is also referred to as the 'big falls' in 2012. We hiked in the morning and I remember getting really tired because I wasn't used to hiking then. Now, majority of the trail to the falls is already paved. Manong Perceival, our guide, says that the P10 entrance fee visitors pay went into the concreting of the path, which is quite beneficial also to the residents of the village. This, and perhaps due to the fact my friend and I spent the walking time catching up, made the hike easier for me. It's a different story for Tine though, who admittedly isn't used to hiking.
Bomod-ok Falls is beyond that village. Getting there is quite easy dahil pababa lahat ng daan.
When our guide heard us talking in Ilocano, he asked where we're from, and when he learned that we're from Cagayan, he pointed to this mountain and said that our place is at the other side of those mountains.
This magnificent view of the rice terraces also makes hiking under the afternoon sun bearable. The rice are green now, but probably next month, they'll start turning into gold, which is a sight I have yet to witness.
With burnt skin, we reached the falls in an hour. I like it better this time because there were only few of us in there, and it wasn't so cold (though the water still is!) so we got to dip in. We stayed in there for another hour, although staying off the water most of the time because it was icy cold. Local kids and other tourists cliff dived to their heart's content. I'd join them if I knew how to swim.
On our way back, we were given two options: take the route we took earlier which will take us longer to hike, or take another route, which is steep, but a shorter way. I always choose the latter in such situations, because tipid-oras. Although Tine would've probably chosen the former. Majority of the trail is also concrete, which makes it easier, but since the falls is all the way down, going back means going up all throughout. If it's any consolation, you'll get a view of the amphitheater rice terraces from another angle.
Haven't had gruelling physical activity in the past two months, since I spend most of the time in my apartment, being unemployed, so naturally, I was also very tired. My feet ached, and I knew it would even be worse the next day. It rained shortly after we arrived at the inn.
We're tired, but we're also famished. All that hiking made us hungry. When the rain stopped, we went out for dinner. This time we dined at Bana's Cafe. It was my first time dining here, and the meal I had was really good! Here's their spicy chicken steak, or something.
We hit off the sack early because the the calltime for the sunrise viewing at Kiltepan is at 4am, which I think is way too early because, what, we're just going to spend an hour and a half out there standing in the cold. If only everyone just agree to be there at 5am, walang lamangan, haha. I was waiting for it to be cancelled because the skies might not be clear as it rained the day before, but when I looked outside from our room's window when I woke up, there were stars, meaning the sky is clear.
We were fetched by Manong Sam. There were two others who joined us, which is good since the travel cost would be cut to half. Transportation fee is P500, two way. When we arrived in Kiltepan, I wasn't surprised to see a lot of people, vehicles, and vendors. Heck, there were even vendors in Marlboro Hills. People were just starting to arrive then. Tine and I quickly secured a spot as people are already filling up the viewing area. They even fixed the area to create a two layered viewing deck. Sagada's sunrise and sea of clouds is still a superstar.
After securing a spot, I left Tine to get a coffee. I was wearing shorts (because my leggings didn't dry up), and I only had a sarong skirted around my legs against the cold dawn. But the Sagada coffee I bought was bleh, didn't taste like brewed, more so like coffee. It was probably over-diluted.
Luckily for the visitors that day, the sea of clouds were already set to amuse them even while it was still dark. The sun took its time though. It was already quarter to 6 when it finally came out behind the mountains.
We drove back to our inn. I was already hungry that early, craving for legit brewed coffee, but found none in the vicinity. I bought nilapet (sticky rice) instead. One of my favorite foods. Sagada's version is just quite different from what we have in Cagayan because they use colored rice.
After this quick breakfast, (we also had indian mangoes in alamang, patibayan ng tiyan), we managed to squeeze in a walk to Echo Valley hanging coffins. I was worried that the tourism office was not yet open, but surprisingly, it already is. They probably open at 7am. Thumbs up! Visitors flock on weekends, and usually, they maximize their stay, so they'd tour early in the morning.
We booked a guide for P200. An access fee of P10 per person is also collected. Again, the trail to Echo Valley is now concrete, and with metal bars for support. Yet it feels different now. Eight years ago, the place used to give me this feeling of being a mysterious and magical place, but now, it looks like just another path you regularly take.
I've heard different explanations from different guides on why Sagada people traditionally hang the coffins of their dead, but the one that struck me most is what our guide back in 2008 said. He explained that they hang the coffins of their dead in the mountains so as not to burden them. The dead shouldn't carry the earth, instead the earth should carry the dead. Our guide this time said that the tradition is done so the dead can become closer to nature, which is still somehow connected with the former.
The tour took us less than an hour. We even stopped by St. Mary's Church to take photos.
We went back to the inn and freshened up because check out time is at 10am.
Our bus leaves at 2:30pm so we still had time for lunch, and we walked all the way to Gaia. I'm not really a fan of vegan food (wooh baboy all the way! haha), everyone seems to love the place. Masarap din naman tumambay dun.
Hiked Marlboro Hills last year to see wild horses. Sa Ambasing pala meron din. :p
And this picturesque scene of an old bus backdropped with towering pine tress is still there! Tine claims it's very Vampire Diary-ish.
We were also waiting for the Ganduyan Museum to open, but unfortunately, they were closed that day.
Despite spending only a little more than 24-hours in Sagada, it was fun-filled. It's always great to travel with friends who share the same interests. Walang sayang na oras. :) This trip also made me realize how I miss hiking.
