Experiencing Dhaka and Cox's Bazar, Bangladesh


I was in Bangladesh on 22-25 August for work. It was my first time going outside Southeast Asia, which means this was the first time I had to process a visa. Visa processing at the Bangladesh embassy in Makati costs PHP 3,000 (if I'm not mistaken), and takes 3 to 6 days.

I wasn't supposed to join the trip, but my immediate supervisor was leaving the organization soon, and the other senior colleagues were planning to pass to me some of his tasks, and during our meeting, I don't know what came over me but when asked about my opinion on the matter I said something like, "Kung sa akin mapupunta ang tasks niya, mas gusto ko na isabak na ako." The secretary general liked the wording actually, so they decided to include me in the delegation. The event would be the first and last training for me before I take over some of my supervisor's tasks. I was anxious during the entire travel because I would be facilitating a workshop session (!!!). I had to speak infront of people!! But then I thought, if not now, when would I start 'practicing' because I already said I'd accept the tasks. The anxiety buried any excitement I should feel. I just wanted to get done with my task.

Also, I didn't know what to expect of Bangladesh because I know nothing of the country except that it is a developing country just like the Philippines, and most probably an agricultural one since the organization has projects there. We stayed for a day in Dhaka, before flying to Cox's Bazar where the activity took place.


Here are some snapshots and stories from my work trip to Bangladesh:

Transportation

For day 1, we stayed in Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. I woke up early and had breakfast while watching a busy street down below through the glass wall. Then a train passes by, WITH PEOPLE ON TOP! A scene that I only used to see in the movies. Later on, some other foreigners would notice the trains, too, and take photos. For people like us who don't see this scene in our own countries, it was really something. You'd think the PNR in the Philippines is the worst public transportation there is, but no. There are far worse apparently.

Another thing that caught my eye is the buses. Most of the buses plying the streets of Dhaka are very old, dilapidated, and may seem to self destruct at any moment. If you are familiar with old non-air-conditioned buses that can still be found in some provinces in the Philippines, their buses are like those. Our old buses are probably even better.

Aside from buses and trains, there are many other forms of public transportation in Bangladesh. Many of them, surprisingly, are even allowed on the highways. I'm talking about rickshaws and the likes. 


One of the many types of public transportation plying the streets of Dhaka is a bicycle with a wheeled enclosed case made of aluminum and metal, which rather resembles a cage. It can carry as much as 6 persons.


The rickshaw is probably the most popular mode of transportation in Bangladesh for it can be found in the city and in the rural as well. I'm actually fond of it although I've never ridden one, but just because they look cute. These colorful and brightly decorated vehicles may look like it could only carry a single person but I actually saw a group of 5 (probably an entire barkada) fit in one. Just like how we fit up to 15 people in a tricycle. If you are alone, you will look like a reyna in a Santacruzan. It's also practical because traffic in Dhaka is very bad. These small vehicles could easily get into small spaces, making the travel faster. Rickshaws are also allowed on main roads. And that cover at the top could is foldable. It could be spread out if it rains. Even rich looking locals riding it.


CNG or baby taxi runs on compressed natural gas, thus the name. It is also a common mode of transportation in Bangladesh. CNGs do not have a single prototype. In Dhaka, CNGs are designed like a closed box made of metal and aluminum, not open like these ones from Cox's Bazar.

Trucks in Bangladesh are extraordinary because of their colorful exterior. The outside is covered with colorful drawings/designs. Even if that truck is carrying rocks or trash, they look classy to me. This blurry photo is the only photo I was able to take.


The buses were the first thing I noticed in Dhaka. As I mentioned, their buses are dilapidated, old, worn out, non-airconditioned. It's like anytime, they will self-destruct. There are air-conditioned ones, but in the same state as the non-AC. I felt like I was transported back to Baclaran where there are similar buses going to Cavite, or in far-flung provinces in the Philippines.

I realized I'm still fortunate living in Manila. Even if buses are almost always full, (I hardly ever experience getting seated in a bus during rush hour), at least the buses are not in similar condition as the ones I saw in Dhaka. And also, the trains looked way older than the PNR. The ones with passengers either sitting or lying at the top and clinging on the sides.

In Dhaka, even the small arteries leading to the main roads are filled with barely moving vehicles at any time of the day. In the videos I took, we're quite lucky our vehicle was moving. If you think the traffic situation in Manila is the worst, it's actually not. The situation in the streets of Dhaka actually puts Manila traffic to shame.



Cox's Bazar

Cox's Bazar is a fishing town. The beach in Cox's Bazar is an unbroken 120 kilometers long, making it the world's longest beach. Cox's Bazar is also known as "Panowan" which literally means "yellow flower" and its older name was "Palongkee." The modern Cox's Bazar derives its name from Captain Hiram Cox, an officer of the British East India Company. Cox was appointed Superintendent of Palongkee and was mobilized to deal with the century-long conflict between Arakan refugees and local Rakhains. He embarked upon the task of rehabilitating refugees in the area and made significant progress. Captain Cox died in 1799 before he could finish his work. To commemorate his role in rehabilitation work, a market (bazar) was established and named after him. (Thank you to Munir, our host, who provided this quick history of the venue.)

Cox's Bazar is a 45-minute plane ride from Dhaka. All of the delegates attending the South Asia event flew on the same day that we almost filled the entire Novo Air plane.


Sights from the plane during the flight from Dhaka to Cox's Bazar:
  • Some flooded areas in Bangladesh are visible from above as the flies lower for a while.
  • Nothing but fluff as the plane flies higher.
  • A very satisfying view of mountains and forests covered with lush greens, and the Bakkhali River once the plane moves down lower, which means we're almost there. 
  • Crossing Bakkhali River and finally landing at Cox's Bazar Airport
This is the Bay of Bengal, the largest bay in the world.


Cox's Bazar, an unbroken 120 kilometers of beach, is the world's longest. We always went there in the morning, before breakfast, since it is only a few minutes from the hotel.





And this is the area that separates the hotel/market from the beach–a forest of towering pine trees.


Our first day in Coz's Bazar was for a field visits, thus, after lunch, we went to three sites around the town. We went to a community seed bank and had a discussion with the farmers. After that, we met with fisherfolks who were producing dried fish, and also had a short talk with them. The last meeting was with the members of a dried fish producers association.

Here are some interesting sights from this field trip:


"Ang cute, parang galleon."
"Parang sa Moana!"

Tuwang-tuwa ako sa mga barko nila that are shaped like mini-galleon ships. I really had to take photos of them no matter what because, as I told my colleagues, I only saw those kind of ships at museums and history books. 😂 Apparently, these ships are structured as such so they can survive the strong waves of Bengal bay.

 


Click here for more photos of the marketplace

 

Cox's Bazar is one of Bangladesh' biggest producers of dried fish. In their markets, you'd see lots of dried fish in different sizes, the biggest I've seen is probably 3/4 of my height. However, a lot of dried fish producers use pesticides in preserving the fishes. COAST Trust, our partner organization in Bangladesh, are giving trainings and other assistance to fisherfolks on producing dried fish organically or without the use of chemicals. There are now several groups that are doing away with the harmful way of preserving fishes, the ones in the photos are their products.

The food


 

I ate a lot when we were in Bangladesh. It was my first time in the country so I had to try as many dishes as I can. I feasted on chicken and fish dishes. I definitely did not restrict myself from having extra, extra, extra rice, especially if it's biryani. Bangla foods are spicy (even the snacks), but usually, the cooks/chef try to adjust the spiciness for foreigners/non-South Asians, according to our host.

Early this year when I quit my job and didn't have any idea what will happen to me, where I would find another worth job, I never imagined that in just a few months, I'd be doing what I wanted to do at my former job, but couldn't because I was already in a different track. Never did I think that I'd ever set foot in Bangladesh. While this work trip was rather exhausting, I am thankful for the experience--careerwise and personal.

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